SICILY & SIRACUSA

When we planned and dreamt about our trip from Menorca to Greece I was not to keen on visiting  the home of the Mafia, Sicily

However Mandy persuaded me to visit and I am really pleased that she did.

The Island is stunningly beautiful when viewed from the sea.  Mountains with hilltop towns and villages cascade into the Aeolian sea.

However the jewel in the crown for us was the amazing must visit city of Siracusa, situated on the SE corner of the island

This old city was trading with the rest of the Mediterranean sea and beyond several hundred years before Christ and rivalled and even surpassed Athens in its power and status. It is said that at its peak 700 yrs BC it had a population of 2.5 million people.

The old city is a labyrinth of narrow winding streets and alleyways, magnificent squares,  churches and of course a cathedral   

   The open market was an experience in its self.  Stalls selling beautiful fresh veg and salad, and incredible fish stalls.

Locally caught Swordfish and Tuna  was everywhere, the traders shouting there produce .

We bought fresh Tuna and ate it with a mixture of sun dried tomato's and Mediterranean vegetables in olive oil. 

Sicily was a great experience and is well worth visiting.  The people were very friendly and help full and everywhere seemed to have a relaxed and happy atmosphere.

We left Siracusa on Sunday19th May and had a 270 NM windy trip across to Cephalonia and we are presently moored in Argostoli.

On our second day here a gale was forecast and duly arrived in the afternoon and created havoc with the boats moored in the harbour.  As the photograph shows we were moored stern to with 50 meters of chain pulling us well of the wall and four springs. this however was not enough and we had to beat a hasty and exciting retreat to get off and anchor in the middle of the harbour.

Our journey from Gosport to Greece is now over and we are looking forward to the next phase of our journey exploring Greece and its numerous islands.

RAY & MANDY

                   WE NOW HAVE A GREEK TELEPHONE NO. 

                                         0030 6943775460

ISLAND HOPPING

Well we have had a great couple of months since we returned to Josephine in Mahon. A few long passages some good and some not so good! Ray says there is no wind in the Med.! Well let me tell you we have had lots and not all good our last long passage for Siracusa to Argostoli which is the capital of Captain Corelli Mandolin island  which took 44 hrs and when we arrived in the dark looking for lights to guide us in over tired and felt like I had been in a washing machine on a cool salty wash for most of it it was great to see land but then it took another 6 hours to tie up! But it was worth it this is beautiful and I don't want to sail at night again .

     The wild life we have seen over the last few weeks has been great dolphins regularly come and race with us , we have seen a couple of Whales and lots of Turtles floating around and waving we had a passenger the other night on a crossing a Swallow that flew on and off the boat several times before settling in the saloon above the sink for the night and left us at dawn!


    We are going to enjoy the Ionian this summer with friends and will keep you informed of our travels.

      Mandy and Ray

SICILY EAST COAST

MOUNT ETNA

TURAMINA

 We left the Aeolian Islands on Monday 13th May and had a breezy sail down towards the Straits of  Messina.

This narrow stretch of water separates Sicily from mainland Italy.  We had 25 to 30 Knots of wind and we sailed down on Genoa alone averaging 7 to 8 knots.

As we gibed and entered the straits the wind was coning over the top of the Sicilian mountains and really blew up !!


We then had a beautiful strong wind sail in flat water down the East coast. We saw Dolphins and a Sword Fish was jumping in front of us.

The Italian waters pilot says that it difficult to see Mount Etna, but we had perfectly clear views of it for two days.

The photograph above with Etna in the background doesn't make it look very high. But this was taken some 40 miles away from it !

ENTRANCE TO SIRACUSA

We anchored overnight below the cliffs of Turamina, a picture post card town perched on the side of a mountain, and with Etna towering above it.

We are now in Sircussa a beautiful old city situated in the south east of the island.. The harbour and town are gorgeous. We intend to stay here for a few days and then set off for the Greek Islands. Hopefully this 260 NM trip will be our last long leg.



RAY & MANDY

APPROACHING USTICA

                 THE AEOLIAN ISLANDS


After along and laborious sail overnight we arrived in the first of Aeolian islands Ustica.

Everywhere we go we say it can not get better than this, and then it does.

JOSEPHINE IN CALA SANTA MARIA
USTICA

                                                                            This group of volcanic islands in the south of the Tyrrhenian sea and to the north of Sicily are a perfect cruising ground and area.

Each island is individual and very attractive. Ustica is the most westerly and some distance from the main group of islands







 

T

ISOLA VULCANO

The next island was Isola Vulcano approx 25 NM from our stopover in N Sicily.  This is a still active volcano.  We anchored in Porto Di levante directly beneath the still smoking crater. And could we smell it ?


The island smells of rotten eggs, with steam/smoke coming out of the mountain in several places. It is inhabited and has an amazing number of ferries speeding into the harbour and disgorging day trippers from the nearby adjacent islands.

  

THERAPEUTIC MUD BATH
(JOSEPHINE IN BACKGROUND)

                                                                 

        
The tourists trek to the peak of the crater some 1578 ft.

There are numerous hot springs and people bathe in them and coat themselves with the rotten egg smelling volcanic mud, and then waddle towards the sea wearing there overall cracked mudpacks.

It is said that it has medicinal benefits but we did not try it!

ISOLA SALINA

Our third Island is Salina. We arrived in scorching hot heat to this steep and very high island and were immediately struck by its greenness.

We will spend a few more days in the area and then move on to the Straits of Messina and the E coast of Sicily and prepare for what is hopefully our last long sail to the Greek Ionian.

RAY & MANDY

Thurs 9 May 2013

38 33.5 N x 14 52.3 E

MAHON TO SARDINIA & SICILY

ENTERING BONIFACIO

With some sadness we left Mahon on Thursday April 11th.  We had become very settled there and almost become locals !

We left and headed for Sardinia some 200 miles to the east. What a fabulous sail we had.. Josephine with her "clean bottom" just flew and after a day and an exciting night at sea we arrived in Sardinia.

THE CITY ON TOP OF A CLIFF

                                                                 





     Sardinia is a truly beautiful and amazing Island and cruising area, and we were so lucky to arrive when we did. The weather conditions were very good and we were able to cruise the La Madelana Archipeligo thoroughly enjoying the numerous anchorages and harbours.

Across the infamous Straights of Bonofacio lies Corsica and the amazing harbour of Bonifacio. The straights, only fifteen miles wide, lived up to there reputation and we sailed across in a brisk twenty five knot breeze on the nose.

The harbour is almost impossible to see from the sea. The entrance   is via a narrow gap between sheer cliffs with a dogleg to the East.

Once inside this beautiful old city opens up. It is possibly one of the most attractive harbours in the entire Mediterranean.


SARDINIA TO ISOLA USTICA

Having cruised the Archipelago we sailed the East coast and then on Wed 1st May we left La Calleta for Ustica.  This island is literally a dot on the map and also has a mysterious history. I can only say that we had a strange passage. Winds up and down and swinging in all direction, particuly in the middle of the night.

When we arrived and re read the pilot guide we realised that we were in the "Aeolian Triangle". An area of sea with an awesome reputation for strange and unpredictable winds.  Odysseus in Homers Odyssey refers to this area and blames the various gods of ancient Greece for the strange winds. In the middle of the night we were experiencing winds changing direction by 180 deg, and zero to 25 Kn  in seconds.

The island  of Ustica proved to be delightful and very beautiful.  This volcanic rock in mid Med is very famous for Sub Aqua activities.  The entire islands economy seems to be based on fishing and diving tours.

SICILY
We are now cruising along the N coast of Sicily.  The coast line is stunning and mountainous. On Tues 7h May we plan to leave for the Aeolian islands.  This archipelago of volcanic islands are to the North of Sicily and include the isle of Stromboli, a still active volcano , known as the "Oldest light house in the world".  You can see it glowing at night.

Many apologies for the gap in blogs but WI FI access has been difficult. It is Italy after all !!

RAY & MANDY